The origin of the barbecue method

By JOE O'CONNELL, cbbqa past President

The origin of the barbecue cooking method is a key component of the American barbecue conjecture

Origin of the barbecue cooking method

The American Barbecue Conjecture posits that the barbecue cooking method was taught by Native Americans (Arawak or Taino tribes) at the time of the early Spanish explorations (circa 1500), and that the method was taken back to Europe, where it was widely disseminated (via the printing press).  Within two generations, the method was taken back to North America by the English colonists, whence it became American barbecue.

Unresolved questions

To date, there has been no authoritative documentation (in the form of primary or secondary sources) to support the component of the American barbecue conjecture concerning the cooking method as learned from the Native Americans.  

What is the evidence that the Taino (or other Caribbean tribes) cooked fish or meat over wood fires?  Is there any evidence that they employed a method of grilling at high temperatures (ideal for fish) or a method of barbecuing at low temperatures (better for game)?

These and many other questions are so far unanswered.

Terminology of smoking

Different terms or words are used to describe different techniques of smoking meat.  Each of the following techniques shares the fact that it uses dry heat (i.e. not steam, boiling water, etc.) from a wood fire.

Cold smoking (like ham and salmon):  meat is first cured (salt, sugar and nitrate) and then smoked at 90F for long periods.  The meat is not dried but is preserved, and the smoke flavor passes into the meat.

Hot smoking:  some experts differentiate hot smoking and barbecue, while others consider them the same technique.  According to the former, hot smoking (like sausages) occurs at up to 190F and takes a few hours (depending on the meat).  It partially cooks and seasons the meat but does not preserve it, and the smoke flavor passes into the meat.

Barbecuing occurs at around the boiling point of water (212F, but sometimes up to 250F or a little higher) and takes a few hours (depending on the meat).  It fully cooks but does not preserve the meat, and the smoke flavor passes into the meat..

Roasting occurs at 350F (+/- 100F).  It fully cooks the meat quickly, but relatively little smoke flavor passes into the meat.

Broiling occurs at 500F and up (sometimes much higher).  It fully cooks the meat quickly, but no smoke flavor passes into the meat.

Each of these techniques is on a spectrum which runs: cold smoking, hot smoking, barbecuing, roasting, and broiling. There may be an overlap with adjacent techniques. And, again, some experts consider hot smoking and barbecuing to be different, while others consider them to be the same.

Details of the conjecture

Cooler and drier weather

Around the year 1500, the temperatures in the Caribbean and nearby areas (Mexico, Central American and Northern South America) were much colder and (even more importantly) much drier -- less humid -- than today. These facts are critical, because dry smoking cannot be done easily in hot and/or humid weather, since the meat will spoil before it dries. (The danger zone for uncured meat, when bacteria will spread quickly, is 40F to 140F.)

Absence of salt

Native Americans had access to little salt.  Thus, they did not and could not preserve meat by curing it.

Dry smoking to preserve meat

In a cooler, drier climate and without salt, the Native Americans learned how to use a smoky fire to preserve meat.  They discovered that the smoky fire dries the meat and preserves it.  The reason is that the smoke contains nitrates and nitrites, which act to inhibit bacterial growth and thus preserve the meat from spoiling.

Native Americans used a wood fire at a temperature (measured at the level of the meat) of up to the boiling point of water (150F to 212F) to preserve and to cook the meat.  In the heat and smoke of the fire, the meat first reaches a point where it is fully cooked.  At this point, the meat is what modern usage calls barbecue.  It will spoil if not eaten quickly.

If the meat remains in the heat and smoke of the fire and continues to cook, the meat will dry out and absorb even more smoke.  After several more hours (depending on the size and cut of meat), the meat will be adequately dried and "cured" with the nitrates and nitrites of the smoke, so that it will be preserved and not spoil.

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